Settlement
Nijh
(Gabalah area)
WHAT
IT IS POSSIBLE TO SEE
Nijh
is a huge village with the area of almost 100 km2
surrounded with the cultivated grounds, built up with
sound houses with the greater private courtyards planted
with fruiters. It is connected with neighbor habitations
and city of Baku through the bus service. The settlement
is extended in 7 km in the lowland, overgrown with
nut trees.
The ancient village Nijh is divided into inhabited
quarters: "Jhotary", "Agdalakky", "Goja - beyim".
In each district there were quarter churches. Now
only one church of the XVII-th century in a quarter
"Jhotary" was preserved. Now it is restored with support
of the Norwegian government. Recently the Udin-National
Cultural Center, which is engaged in development and
preservation of ancient culture of the Udins has been
formed in the settlement Nijh. George Kechaari, an
enthusiast, the historian, the teacher of the Udin
School heads the center. He spends a greater job on
development of textbooks of the Udin language, on
translation classics of the Azerbaijan and world literature
into the Udin language. Well-known Norwegian scientist
Round Heyerdal, who visited Nijh and familiarized
with activity of the Udin National-cultural Center,
was interested in its activity on propagation of the
Udins' ancient culture, lineal descendants of the
Albanians.
With support of the Norwegian government George Kechaari
wrote books narrating about folk customs and ceremonies
of the Udins, which they have kept up to now. Till
now the Udins celebrate a sacred holiday "Mayovka",
which begins on May 1st and proceeds till May 2nd.
On Sundays fairs of national crafts are spent in the
local market. At the market souvenirs, wares made
from metal, leather, wool, wood, etc. are on sale.
All these subjects are made manually by national handicraftsmen
- the Udins.
There functions the cafe of national kitchen in Nijh,
where it is possible to try some food, which far ancestors
of the Udins ate. Following dishes of Udin's cookeries
were preserved: "et siyigi" (a boiled rice with meat),
"firrama" (stuffed turkey fried in tendir), "shiftilig"
(sauce from chestnuts and walnuts), "Chilov" (pilaf
with a string bean), "doshamali ash" (pilaf with a
chicken), etc. During holidays or funeral honors there
was always put self-made cherry-plum vodka and grape
wine on tables.
In the township the premise for accommodation of the
ethnographic museum is being restored. There are five
high schools, three Russian schools with obligatory
teaching of the Udin language and two Azerbaijan ones,
where studying the Udin language is on disposal of
pupils' wish. English language is also taught at schools.
The main sight located near to Nijh, is ruin of an
ancient capital of the Caucasian Albania the city
of the ancient habitation "Gabalah" ("Gabalaka").
This site of the ancient settlement is located in
15 km from Nijh on the hills, between valleys of the
rivers Jhourluchaj and Garachaj. On the way to Gabalah
the remains of an ancient ceramic water pipe were
saved. Antique historians Pliniy Sekund and Ptolemy
mentioned Gabalah. The city from the north had steep
ravines, which served as natural barrier to the enemy;
artificial trench divided the territory of Gabalah
in two parts - "Silbir" and "Gaur galasi". Sanctuary
of the V-th century A.C. "Komrat", which is a place
of pilgrimage both Christians and Moslems was saved
towards the West of Gabalah on a high ridge.
Gabalah as a city has existed more than 1800 years;
out of them 600 years it has been the capital of the
state of the Caucasian Albania. During its long life
the city was exposed to devastating invasions many
times. Despite of this, Gabalah has brought down evidences
of a high level of civilization up to now.
The Udins, as well as other aboriginal inhabitants
of Azerbaijan, historically conducted a sedentary
life being engaged in cultural diversified agriculture,
craft and cattle breeding, extraction of minerals.
As far as in the XIX-th century they were known for
the arable farming, silkworm breeding, gardening,
truck farming. They sowed wheat, millet, and barley.
Udins' the food is various, includes flour, dairy,
meat, vegetative dishes. It is necessary to note specially
the food "harisa". This is wheat sodden up to pappy
statuses and densely filled by butter and slices of
meat or a bird. Harisa is farmers' traditional food
since olden days known in Forward Asia including the
Syrians, from which the Udins and their neighbors
under the same name have borrowed it.
Traditional clothes of the Udins are of common Caucasian
type. The men wear a shirt, long wide trousers, arkhalik,
charikhi, boots, and a Cossack hat. Lady's wear are
bright tunic type shirts, long wide trousers, arkhalik,
charikhi, boots, and an obligatory belt. The female
headdress of women is "dagta". It is a complex "construction"
consisting of several elements and having originality.
At first the head was assigned with a round skull-cap
"gatar", atop tied "chelebend" that is two triangles
made of textile fabric connected with a band, which
ends fastened under a chin. It was actually "dagta"
atop of which imposed a white triangular scarf "yaligat",
then a small scarf tepelik, which ends also fixed
under a chin. Atop of all there was a turban - "dinaya"
- a big black scarf.
The Udins are of a beautiful constitution. A face
is more often round; the hair is light or brown. They
are long-livers, live up 80-100 and more years. The
Udins are hospitable, ready to help each other with
everything, are respectful to seniors. In the remote
past the greater family, which members were close
relatives between each other was characteristic for
them; they lived compactly, by "family" quarters.
In each such quarter there was a head, usually senior
in a big family, supervising field and garden jobs,
watering. But in the XIX-th century a small family
was characteristic for the Udins. Father is a head
and a master of the house whom all members of the
family implicitly obey.
The women are notable for morals. In the past they
conducted the closed way of life: they closed their
faces, ate separately from men, did not dare to have
a conversation with strangers, the wife had no right
to leave the house without husband's permission.
The Udins' children spent the most part of time on
the open air: kids played games, the adults worked
(labor education). Care of children proceeded till
14-15 years, and then they were considered independent.
The Udins got early married: young men at the age
of 16, girls - of 13. Till now they adhere to endogamy
that is marriages in their environment are preferable.
But the strict interdiction on marriages even with
distant and not blood relatives is simultaneously
observed: not more close than the seventh knee. In
the past the basic wedding ceremonies began in the
morning, and proceeded then in a narrow circle of
relatives during several days. They played the tar,
kemancha, def, zurna, balaban. Visitors had fun, sang,
danced, and conceived various games. Among dances
is an ancient Azerbaijan wedding one uzundere, which
neighbor people also adopted. The group dance yalli,
fixed already 10 thousand years ago on rock drawings
of Gobustan, near Baku is widespread since olden days
occurring among indigenes of Azerbaijan. Friday was
considered the happy day: whatever one begins then
all will go successfully. There were widespread different
superstitions, guessings, and magic actions. The sorcerers
treating malefic and illnesses had a big influence.
The Udins worshipped to the Moon that was the Albans'
main deity. Knowingly they colligate the Albanian/udin
name of this star - Khash with a symbol and name of
a cross: in Udin the term khashdesun has retained
its meaning "to be christened" till now. Among other
objects of worship there was the Sun, fire, sacred
stones, trees, streams, spring. The cult of ancestors
was also widespread. Many of the udin's ceremonies
and calendars are connected with agriculture, for
example, consecration of a vineyard. In the Udin's
lexicon the names of some months occured in the remote
past and connected with economic activities have been
preserved up today: tuleh/tuen - grape, namots/kamots
- crude, tsileh/shili - seed, bokavon - scorching,
yexniya/yexna - reaping, habniya/hibna - the third.
Udin folklore is various: games and entertainments,
lyrical and aggressive songs and dances, fairy tales
and legends, proverbs and sayings, myths and legends
- all of them are closely coherent with a way of life
and labor activity. The part of them was saved up
to now, the other part is known by records of the
last century. Even after acceptance of Christianity
the Udins, as well as other Albanian tribes, have
not forgotten the former rituals, customs of tradition,
ceremonies and combined them with new religion. For
example, as usually, day and night unquenchable fire
burned in the hearth of the house that evidences about
survival of zoroastrizm. In prays the Udins-Christians
quite often address to the Moon. |